Marinduque: Paradise in the Heart of the Philippines

This mountain girl who doesn’t know how to swim never thought she’d fall in love with island life.

A year ago, by destiny, choice, or force, I was in a van on a ship bound for an island called Marinduque. 

It was a deliberate career change from teaching to community work. Breaking free from the classroom and into the vast open fields, mountains, and sea was a dream come true! 

Love at first sight. That’s what I felt seeing the ship sail along the islets and to the mainland. The water was crisp blue and sparkling. Golden-white sand and rock formations float in the vast sea. Lush green mountains stood proud and tall on the horizon. It’s paradise!

After that first trip, traveling to that stunning island had been a regular treat.

Travel can be a bit painful. At the moment, there are no flights to or from Marinduque. If there are, it will only take you around 45 minutes! From Manila, you can either take JAC Liner in Cubao or Taft-Buendia. One bus from Cubao leaves around 5-7 PM, goes in the RORO, and goes straight to Marinduque. If you take that bus, you’ll reach the island by morning for breakfast. JAC Liner has regular trips to Lucena if you want more travel flexibility. Take the bus with the SM Dalahican signage, and tell the conductor you’re going to the port. The bus will drop you at the port area. The bus to Dalahican leaves every 30 minutes to 1 hour. The fare is Php 220 if you’re coming from Taft-Buendia. The bus ride takes 4-6 hours, depending on the traffic condition. Upon reaching the port, select Montenegro or Starhorse as your ship provider. Montenegro has bigger ships, while Starhorse has fancy (air-conditioned) restrooms! Departure time changes now and then. The ticket costs Php 260. If you’re lucky, you can get a ticket for only Php 130, or better yet, Php 50! There’s also a terminal fee that costs Php 30. The Talao-Talao Port, Dalahican, Lucena, is a relatively good place as you await boarding unless it’s peak season! There are food stores inside and outside the terminal. 

Ships often sail smoothly. The rainy season is a different story, though. The RORO trip has always been an interesting part of my life. Whether traveling alone or with someone, the boat trip is a treat. From the interesting variety of people to the opportunity to sleep, to random flying fish and dolphin shows! You can opt to stay in the air-conditioned lounge area or stay outside. I prefer staying outside. I love the wind and the view during morning and afternoon trips. The ship ride, on average, takes 3 hours. After 3 hours, the tranquil blue waters, mesmerizing islets, and the lush green mountains of Marinduque will welcome you.

The port is marked by a statue of Our Lady of Good Voyage. According to locals, in the early times, the Moros tried to take control of the island. As they did, Mary appeared with a bright light and scared the Moros away. The statue recalls how Mary once protected the island from harm. 

You will dock in Balanacan, a barangay of Mogpog. Mogpog is one of the province's six towns. The others are Boac, Gasan, Buenavista, Torrijos, and Sta. Cruz.

(There’s another port in Cawit, Boac. They only have one trip a day and don’t have year-round trips.)

Is there no other route to Marinduque? Well, there is! You can reach Marinduque via Pinamalayan, Oriental Mindoro. This is one crazy travel experience, though. I did it only once! There’s only one trip to and from via this route. The boat that sails between the two island provinces is a fishing boat. It often cannot dock close to the port. Departing from Pinamalayan means getting in a wooden box with the other passengers (including pigs) and other products (like rice). The said wooden box is then pulled closed to the actual boat. The boat doesn’t have much space. You have to stay where you are the whole time. Standing up straight is quite an impossible act as well. Upon reaching Marinduque, a smaller boat with one “katig” will fetch the passengers. It’s chaotic and scary. Or you’ll find yourself paying someone to carry you to the shore. Using this route will dock you at Gasan. 

Local transportation on the island is mainly by Jeepney and tricycle. However, be mindful that transportation on the island is not 24/7. Some areas only have specific trips in a day or a week. 

There are quite several options for accommodation on the island. There are some hotels and resorts to choose from. Among the most famous ones are Pinky’s, Villa sa Aplaya’a (www.facebook.com/villasa.aplayaa), Boac Hotel (www.facebook.com/BoacHotel), and Luxor (www.facebook.com/pangi.gasan.marinduque.philippines). There are also several houses and options listed in AirBnB that you can check.

You can choose to make your life easier by getting a travel agency. Among the many, I highly recommend Dream Favor (https://www.facebook.com/DreamFavor). We have commissioned their service, and it was nothing but amazing. 

What’s amazing about Marinduque is that it has so much to offer. Below are some of the places to visit on the island:

Boac Cathedral

A memento of heritage and faith. The Cathedral stands proudly overlooking the capital town of Boac.

Laylay Port

Located very near the main road, Laylay Port is a must-see during sunsets. The port was first used during the Spanish Period and was later cemented. People say that the port sinks slowly every year. The silhouette the port creates with the stunning colors of the sea, sun, and sky is breathtaking. 

Butterfly and Insect Farms

Marinduque is big in butterfly and cocoon exportation. It ships thousands to Europe year in and year out. Various insects can also be seen in lush forests and areas. A Marindqueño discovered a stunning leaf insect, and it’s now named after him. You can check out these insect and butterfly farms everywhere on the island. 

(Photo by: Rafael Seño)

Tres Reyes (Gaspar, Melchor Baltazar)

One of my personal favorites because of its untapped potential. Also, it’s the home of one of our pilot schools for The Garden Classroom Program. There’s a lot of work that needs to be done in the area in terms of community development and environmental protection. But still, it’s a beauty!

Poctoy White Beach

This beach is a must-visit two hours from the capital town, Boac. There are several resorts in the area if you plan to stay overnight. There’s also a public beach access. This area faces the Sibuyan Sea and provides a great view of Mt. Malindig (see next photo).

Mt. Malindig

It is a dormant volcano. A lot of people like it because of its amazing trail scenery. Who can resist? 

Maniwaya

This beautiful island is often the last stop of the Three Island Package tour. A number of resorts here can arrange meals and book accommodation, island hopping, and activities.

Palad Sand Bar

Part of the Three Island Package tour. This stretch of majestic white sand is available for enjoyment for around 4 hours every day. There’s a Php 50 landing fee per boat. This is a special place. This is where I first learned how to float. :D

Ungab Rock Formation

 This is a part of the Three Island Package tour.

Bellaroca/Elephant Island

 At the moment, I think they only accept day tours.

Agrea Model Farm

It is our small piece of paradise and home on the island, the heart and brain of our work. We don’t randomly accept visitors but hold events and invitational visits. Follow our page for updates (www.facebook.com/agreaph).

The list contains a few of the famous ones. There are a lot more places that I need to visit as well. Like Pulang Lupa, Luzon Datum, Bathala Cave, and Ulong Beach. Other than visiting famous places, I suggest walking and exploring. The island is such a beautiful sight to experience while just wandering around. Creeks, waterfalls, rivers, caves (Bathala, Bagumbungan), farms, and much more!

What I love about Marinduque is its charm, whether it be sunrise, high morning, sunset, or evening, high tide or low tide, or amihan or habagat season. The night scene on the island is as precious as the morning. When it’s “banaag”, the time of the month when the sky is all black, with no moon and stars, we often run to the beach near where we stay. Why? The sea in Marinduque is awesome. When waves hit, or you touch the water and make ripples, you will see it glow! They glow as if there are Christmas lights under them. This is due to the phytoplankton. Such a happy sight to have them around. They play a vital role in the marine ecosystem, you know. Add to it the sparkly show that fireflies do. Amihan season is also most awaited if you’re somewhere near Luzon Datum. According to people, during this season, seahorses gather there, and it’s a treat to see them! It doesn’t end there.

Low tides are also show-stoppers. The water level can get low and move back up to 10-20 meters. As the water moves back, it opens up a new paradise. The seagrass and water shine beautifully under the sun.

The food in Marinduque is amazing. Various deep-sea fish are regularly available in the market; sometimes, people even knock on your door with some fish for sale. I remember how we often went for a beach dip at the property's rear end and saw fishermen sail out and wait for their catch. How fresh can it be? Vegetables on the island are also fresh, especially if you get them from small-scale vendors. We love going to the Libtangin pop-up market every Saturday in Gasan. Almost everything you need is there. Mostly, farmers sell their harvest there too. You’re guaranteed freshness. By the way, most of the produce on the island is organic. 

If you happen to be around Sta. Cruz, don’t miss out on visiting that market. It’s the biggest on the island. 

Something to remember when buying produce is that they only slaughter cows once a week. I think it’s on Sunday. Also, please don’t haggle with the small vendors. They give you the freshest stuff. You don’t get that from supermarkets, and you don’t haggle with them either.  Well, if you feel a little too lazy to cook, there’s also a lot of carenderia in the area to choose from. If you want to go fancy, there are some restaurants you can try. Among the famous ones are Kusina sa Plaza, Casa de Don Emilio, GoodChow, Luxor, and Amsterdam. Among the must-try in Marinduque are: kari kari, their kakanin, and manakla.

A trip is never complete without a souvenir. Like other places, there are key chains and ref magnets. My most priced must-haves from Marinduque will be the wood carvings, like the Morion masks. Marinduque is also known for the Moriones held every Holy Week. Other things to consider are their buntal products (bags, mats, purses, etc.) and food! The province is known for its Arrowroot cookies. Blessed with so many coconuts, they have a wide array of coconut products from which you can select. They have coconut oil, soaps, coconut sugar, lambanog, and even coco coir pots. Honey and banana chips are also good treats! They also have good turmeric powder and tea. You can visit Holy Carabao and Ritual in Makati if you want to try their turmeric powder.

What makes Marinduque special for me, more than the stunning scenery and the sumptuous food is the people. The Marinduqueños make this island the true heart of the Philippines. They are among the sweetest people. The farmers we’ve met are among the most trusting people. They have fears and anxiety, and they are at times afraid, but they have unwavering dreams, overflowing love, and an outstanding sense of confidence and faith that keep them going.